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Post by oxfordshirejohn on Sept 9, 2021 14:13:35 GMT
Having acquired the Mosquito back in July at the Stafford show I decided to stop "chasing rainbows" and do something practical, what exactly had I bought and what I needed to do to make it serviceable. Firstly (apart from blowing up the tyers) was to note the the peddles were out of line, being at "10 past 10", the usual cause for this is that one of the crank cotter pins has been fitted the wrong way round. An easy fix, remove one of the pins and refit or fit new from the opposite of the crank, easy that is if you can get the old pin out. Cotters that have been in place for possibly 60 years can be and often are, very reluctant to move, as was the case this time. Took the combined efforts of a length of heavy gauge tube - positioned under the crank and down to the concrete floor - a very large hammer and an oxy-acetylene torch. Took all morning to achieve, but it came out in the end. Ruined the pin in the processes of course and then just to put the "top hat" on as it were the new pin wouldn't fit. Seems that the British pin or at least the one that came from my local bike shop are not the same as fitted by the Italians back in the 60's. The new pin in fact had a slightly greater diameter, reaming out the hole in the crank cured that, but found I also need to grind a little off the pin's flat before it would go fully home. With the new pin in place the two cranks are at the more correct " quarter past nine" position. None of this of course will make the machine go any better, but certainly looks better. With the new cotter pin in place the two cranks are in their proper positions opposite each other
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Post by JamesCentral on Sept 9, 2021 15:55:32 GMT
You won't want to know this now, but Danny stocks metric cotter pins.
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Post by oxfordshirejohn on Sept 10, 2021 14:17:31 GMT
Some progress, the throttle slide was stuck however took off the air intake cover of the carburetor, removed what looked for all intense and purposes as a bundle of steel wool ( some sort of air filter) and with the aid of screwdriver was able free the slide. Once out gave it a bit of a polish and put back, quite a bit of excess slack in the throttle cable which will need attention, but the slide is going up and down as it should. Next, was there a spark? Answer no, removed the flywheel to check the points and find that they were not in fact opening. Slacken the off the points back-plate screw (very tight), adjust points. With the points opening and closing as they should, still no spark, but after some attention with a small flat file between the point contacts the spark was restored. Used a electric drill to spin the motor over and while I was at it I also connected a voltmeter to the lighting terminal to check if there was any output, and yes there was. Hopefully I should be able to have lights as well.
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Post by oxfordshirejohn on Sept 19, 2021 13:56:23 GMT
Needing some way of keeping the rear wheal of the ground I purchased a "Fold-able Bicycle Trainer Stationary Bike Cycle Stand Indoor Exercise Training" from a well known on-line auctions site, With the Cucciolo I had fabricated a rear stand ( and the mudguard clip ) from scratch, but it was quite a bit of effort so at just under ten pounds including postage and feeling a bit lazy I took a chance on it. It dully arrived and didn't fit, much too wide for any bicycle I have ever seen, however according to the instructions the legs have to be "adjusted" As you can see quite a bit of "adjusting" ( ie. bent) As way of standing the bike up it's fine, whether it will be up to the task of sitting astride the bike in order to start and run the engine remains to be seen. In the meantime I had a look at the rear tyre a 700-35c which will need to be replaced, the side walls are split, also, not that it maters much as it's going to changed anyway it had been fitted "back to front" according to the arrow molded onto the tyre side.
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Post by oxfordshirejohn on Sept 20, 2021 16:02:18 GMT
Today's task fit new rear tyre, usually straight forward enough but not this time. Exceptions prove the rule as they say, firstly getting the wheel out of the bike, would not go forward sufficiently to clear the chain stays - hit the engine roller - letting the tyre down over came that. Next, getting the old tyre off, which I think had been there for a very long time and "welded" itself to the rim. Came off in the end, but not before the tyre side walls tore away from the tyre bead, didn't do the inner tube much good either. Wheel rim very rusty inside, cleaned up with a wire brush and treated with anti rust. Set off to my local shop only to discover they did not have a 700-35c, did have a 700-38c, only 3mm bigger they say , shouldn't be a problem. Fit new tyre with the aid of some bead lubricant and put back in the bike remembering not pump it up first. Pump up the tyre, job done. Only it wasn't, found that the tyre was just touching the engine roller even with the wheel back as far as it would go. There are some days I think I should of stayed in bed!
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Post by oxfordshirejohn on Sept 21, 2021 11:07:04 GMT
New day, fresh look at the rear wheel, problem solved, or to be more precise identified. As you can see there is in fact space for the wheel to move further back in the chain stays, it's the drive chain itself preventing further movement. Really needs an extra half link, however given it's age it may be as well to replace it anyway.
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Post by oxfordshirejohn on Sept 25, 2021 17:58:21 GMT
Half link for a cycle chain, I thought that would be easy, only it wasn't. None of the bike shops near me had any (one didn't even know what one was). A long search on line found some but mostly from the other side of the world, one although cheep enough wanted just over Β£17.00 postage! Did in the end find some UK supplier one of whom wanted Β£4.50 to post, seems a lot for a very small item. In the end found another who only wanted Β£1.50 to post but the item itself was a pound more expensive. Was getting a bit fed-up by then then so ordered it anyway. Don't know how long it will take to get here but as I don't have any petrol I can't see if it will run anyway. The mere mention of a "shortage" and all the "Dummies" rush out in a panic, not a fuel station open anywhere near me.
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Post by JamesCentral on Sept 27, 2021 15:36:23 GMT
Weirdly, although it may be hard to find a single half link, you can get 410 chain that's entirely made of half links and some new BMX bike chains come with a half-link!
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Post by oxfordshirejohn on Oct 1, 2021 15:26:10 GMT
The "half link" arrived and fitted. Half link used to extend a chain where a full link would be too much. Here the is the half link in place, now the chain has gone from too tight to too slack. However the whole idea was to be able to move the wheel back anyway that was duly done only to find the tyre found something else to rub on. In this case the mudguard, happily there was just enough length on the mudguard stays to move the
guard up out of the way.
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spike
New Member
Posts: 16
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Post by spike on Oct 7, 2021 7:51:02 GMT
I have also acquired a Garelli Mosquito 38B fitted to a Romani frame. Is anyone able to give me an idea about where I might find the frame number. Headstock, seatpost and bottom bracket are unstamped. I am beginning to think the frame might be numberless which might make life a little more tricky!
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Post by oxfordshirejohn on Oct 7, 2021 9:46:34 GMT
Me too Spike, I can't find a number on my bicycle frame either. As you say given DVLA's obsession with frame numbers it could be "tricky" On the other hand a man with a set of number punches I suspect would be able to "find" one. In days gone by such machines were registered on their engine number, sadly no more. It is not uncommon for continental machines to be stamped at the rear end of the chain stays, might be worth a look
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Post by moby54 on Oct 26, 2021 10:34:10 GMT
Yes alot of old Moby's are stamped in this area.l/h side where rear wheel enters.but a couple of years ago I couldn't find my frame number where it should normally be but when I started wire brushing the frame ready for painting I found the number stamped on the bottom right hand frame cross member so I phoned Andrew at the EACC and asked if this was normal.he said no maybe done on a Monday morning John when the guy had been drinking some plonk the night before.lol.π²πππΎπΎπΎπΎ.
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Post by oxfordshirejohn on Oct 27, 2021 16:30:54 GMT
Not much progress of late, other projects taking precedent ( a '35 Riley car should any one be interested). That however has stalled now as well while I wait for some specialty welding to be done. So continued my (futile as it happened) search for a frame number. The one place I had not looked was under the bottom bracket, but to do that meant taking the engine out of the frame. Not too difficult happily, but still no sign of any numbers. Did however give me chance to remove what might well be 60 years of accumulated road muck, an amalgam of road muck and oil is a pretty good metal preservative, really very little rust underneath. Not much much paint either, so a bit of "touching in" required.
A chance to give the engine a clean as well, not quite perfect but a good deal better and possibly half a pound lighter.
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Post by solexineScott on Oct 27, 2021 21:12:56 GMT
I bet it was fun though?
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Post by oxfordshirejohn on Oct 28, 2021 15:21:34 GMT
Took the opportunity whilst the engine was out of the frame to remove and clean out the carburetor. Also with it off to do a bit more cleaning on top of the engine which was not accessible with the carb. in place.
Need to put the engine back in the frame next.
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